The windows are open, the baby is in bed, there’s a crispness to the air, we’re back in the city imminently, and I have Practical Magic on in the background.
I’ve been doing a lot of thinking about what I want this newsletter to become, and I don’t really have any answers. It’s been such a fun creative outlet, but it takes time. I’m scared to turn on paid subscriptions for the obvious reasons (the potential heartbreak that no one finds this interesting or valuable enough, etc. etc.).
In the same breath, the brave (and better) version of myself reminds me that if you never try, you don’t know. Apparently the change of seasons brings all this up.
For now, I’m continuing as is, and I’m thankful for this community of new friends and subscribers who are finding value (or just fun/enjoyment!) out of this side of my creativity—which has been hilariously vulnerable to share, even semi-anonymously.
Okay. Hard pivot into gilets. I think they are so underrated!! You don’t see them here the way you do abroad, and I don’t understand it. A gilet is versatile, adds a fun layer, and gives you pockets. There are about twelve different directions to go in vintage and almost all of them do it for me.
A quick note on the name, since I’m going to keep saying gilet. Technically a vest, a gilet, a weste, and a janker aren’t the same thing. In the UK a vest is underwear and a gilet is the sleeveless layer. In Austria a janker isn’t even sleeveless (it’s the jacket). Anyway. Whatever you want to call them, I’m making the case that they’re a very worthy addition to your vintage/secondhand collection.
Boiled wool
A few years ago I bought the cropped cream version of this vest from Rier, which they seem to no longer make (this one is close and I love the color). I still wear it constantly through fall and winter even 4+ years later and it has yet to pill.
Rier is South Tyrolean, which is the home of boiled wool. (Lilly Sisto wore the brown version of the same Rier one I have on safari, which is proof you can also get away with them in summer.) Given its utility and how much I wear it, I’m tempted to add a colored one to my arsenal, like the vintage one below.
As you can see above, you can dress a gilet up or down, and it adds exactly the right amount of layering in my humble opinion. I personally like the boxier fit—it's what makes it feel effortless to me. It does however mean it looks better over a slimmer base (versus a full skirt, for example).
They can be styled for a dinner, or for the park on the weekends. I’m thinking I’ll try a fun, oversized brooch (something like this) on mine at some point this fall. I like the idea of contrasting an androgynous, boxy gilet with an ultra feminine accessory.
Top row, left to right
NWT Soeur (S; $282) Love the versatility with or without belt and a great in-between brown and green
Vintage Norm Thompson boiled wool vest (L; $38) Don’t let the pop of red intimidate you! Would look great with a full denim (Canadian tuxedo) look
Vintage Tally Ho wool vest (S; $25) Feels a lot like my Rier one but with a v-neck and fun clasps
Bottom row, left to right
Steffner pure wool gilet (42; $48) Love how classic, old-school this one is (a lot like the one Blanca is wearing in the inspo pics above)
NWT Soeur (34; $428) Very into the high-neck. I am tempted by this because I find navy works so well with black or brown through winter
Vintage Burberry (44; $99) Can’t go wrong with vintage Burberry
Longer, for the countryside
I aim for this variety to hit below the hip, ideally tweed, suede, or tartan, and with a pocket situation. I’m usually channelling English countryside when I steal my husband’s decades old Barbour vest and tend to pair it with a plaid midi and tall boots.
Related, if you didn’t catch this article from Plum Sykes about “countryside dressing,” it’s an entertaining read. I don’t know how the algorithm just now surfaced it to me, but an addition to her “loose” characterization would be “having a general wherewithal.”
Top row, left to right:
Vintage Welsh Wollens Coracle vest (S; $53) I have few Welsh pieces. They are so well-made and the patterns are great. Love the belt clasp for a cinch
Lauren Ralph Lauren vest (L; $43) Worth knowing it’s faux suede, which I’d normally skip, but the cut is unique (in a good way). Thinking over dark denim
Aquascutum check gilet (UK 12; $58) Classic! If you like this but it’s not your size, use the same search terms…there’s a handful out there
Bottom row, left to right:
Vintage Asian frog vest (S; $30) SO good! Someone needs to snag this. Very Merci, c’est vintage
Vtg Royal Stewart tartan vest (36” chest; $25) Perfect for a weekend upstate/Vermont. I’d wear it on top of a winter white look (cream jeans and cable knit sweater)
Woolrich lace-up fringed vest (M; $55) Virgin wool, fringed hem, leather lacing up the front…need I say more? It’s mine if none of you buy it
As a top
The one people forget! Fitted gilets can sneakily be worn as a standalone top. A lot of the inspiration you see skews summer…
However, my mind goes towards winter/holiday. Think with a slim midi skirt, over a slip dress, with a turtleneck underneath, belted over trousers…the opportunities are endless.
If I thought I could get my ribcage in the above vintage Prada, I’d be wearing this exact outfit (sans velvet/fur) on stage at a speaking event I have in October. I cannot. So one of you should, and then please come back and tell me about it.
Top row, left to right:
Marks & Spencer black velvet vest (M; $26) Love the frogs and long split front
Prada vintage late 90s/early 00s (M, $356) I love this. Even better with cigarettes and fun jewelry for holiday parties
Jones New York 90s (4 petite; $88) Brown! And perfectly styled in the seller’s pic
Middle row, left to right:
Vintage Miu Miu with coins (6/IT42; $750) Offer less. Collectible piece
1970s black long vest with frog closures (M; $15) Fifteen dollars!!! Guys!!!
Vintage velvet vest with frog closures (M; $28) Listed as green, but photographs more as teal (a hot color for the season). Someone needs to buy (could be styled top or vest)
Bottom row, left to right:
Ralph Lauren Tartan vest (M; $32) Ralph Lauren! Wine velvet! Mandarin collar! Down from $99….
Vintage Italian chocolate brown velvet waistcoat (M; $96) Love the braided trim and buttons
1960s black wool gilet (XL; $65) For a tall gal! I would style you to belt it over pants…
It’s hard to go wrong and in most cases when it comes to gilets, as sizing is flexible and they can be styled so many different ways.
If you already own a vest/gilet you love, tell us about it (even better, send me on a welcomed hunt).
Thanks for being along for this ride. <3
Finders keepers,
SN
Some of these links may earn me a small commission, which I appreciate, since this whole thing runs on love.
Each week(ish) I’ll be sharing things from across home, fashion, travel, and littles…mostly wherever my vintage hunting and rabbit-hole deep dives take me. Thank you for the support.
This could not come at a better time. I literally just rescued a fur gilet from my mom donating it to Goodwill! Going to put to good use.
Ok the VELVET COAT BE STILL MY BEATING HEART