This post is a long one (two weeks in the making!), and your inbox will tragically cut it off. Open it in the Substack app or on the web to see the whole thing.
I went down a PoloFest tok rabbit hole. If you missed it, Ralph Lauren held its first official vintage festival in Tokyo last month, with 17 independent dealers and about 10,000 pieces.
Separately, the company now has its own resale program that buys back its old clothes and resells them, often for above secondhand prices you’ll find elsewhere. Which is why I bring you this very important thesis (peer review welcome!!).
I love vintage Ralph Lauren. As I’ve mentioned, I think it’s a great equalizer across vintage, in the sense that almost no matter your style, you can find a vintage RL piece that works for you.
Whether you’re Diane Keaton in Annie Hall (much of her wardrobe was Ralph) or more Ralph himself in a denim shirt (on our collective imaginary ranch), there’s a vintage piece for you. And if you’re neither, there’s also some incredible silk skirts below.
There are many sub-brands of Ralph Lauren. While Ralph is an equalizer, they’re not all the same and it can be confusing. There is a separate deep dive to be done for RL men’s but I know what I’m good at and saving myself.
An aside, I had this all drafted (finds and all) when a friend mentioned this article. It dives into each RL sub-brand’s origin, and I highly recommend it if you want more of a history lesson. I’d consider this post more of a field guide, through the lens of my own taste and actual vintage finds.
Let us start high-level, nerdy table:
Ralph Lauren has never published an official sub-brand dating chart, so I find it helpful to think in ranges. On women’s pieces, a polo player on the label usually means before 1991. Made in USA or Canada usually means before the mid-1980s. And then allegedly, Hong Kong means the late ‘80s, the Philippines the ‘90s, and China the ‘98ish or later. (RL historians, if you’re out there, please feel free to jump in.)
New here? Hi! Five months ago I started PMLF as a running record of what I’m hunting for, how I plan on styling it, and a few other creative pursuits sprinkled in. My goal is to make vintage feel approachable and wearable.
RL Collection & Purple Label
Collection is the runway line and what we see at fashion week every season. Many would consider it the holy grail of vintage Ralph.
RL Collection gold suit (6; $150) A Collection suit for $150. I was very close to buying this for myself.
RL Collection silk gown (6; $1,360) Charcoal silk, bias cut. Classic RL and very Ari Goldwasser
RL Collection beaded scarf (one size; $998) Incredible fully beaded scarf (or sash belt)
RL Collection calf-hair clutch (one size; $1,575) Gold calf hair clutch!!!
RL Collection velvet blazer (UK 6; $80) Velvet double-breasted goodness. Located in the UK.
RL Collection gold gown (4; $1,242) Fully beaded silk and made in the USA
RL Collection beaded top (M; $761) Ugh I love this. Also fully beaded—incredible
RL Collection shearling jacket (2/4; $399) Cream shearling with a stand collar. So chic!!
RL Collection halter sweater (New; $890) Would be future vintage for your daughter
RL Collection safari bag (one size; $7,452) Look, I know. I had to include this leopard calf hair Spring 2017 just so we can all admire (more affordable RL version here and non-RL vintage alt here)
Now we’re into sub-sub-brands. Until about 2015, the runway line (RL Collection above), had a purple tag, so resellers usually list it as “Purple Label.” In my opinion, it’s one of the best Ralph Lauren vintage: runway-level design and fabric, and made before 2015. (Men’s Purple Label is a separate line that’s still sold today, so this only applies to women!)
Purple Label military jacket (L / US 10; $3,525) The frogging alone. Obviously a massive investment piece.
Purple Label crewneck (men’s S; $110) A Purple Label sweater for $110 is a great deal.
Purple Label knit halter (L; $195) Red cable halter, very 2002 in the best way. I want this.
Purple Label maxi wrap skirt (6; $299) Tan silk wrap to the floor. I would guess late 80s.
Purple Label mini skirt (4; $250) Metallic mini that is so fun. Holidays for some warm weather gals?
Purple Label evening jacket (XS / US 2; $488) That collar is incredible. Timeless piece you would have forever imo.
Purple Label velvet gown (6; $473) Black velvet column with a great little train. Simple but classic.
Purple Label velvet skirt (S; $120) Velvet slip skirt for $120. Wear it with #2.
Purple Label snakeskin slingbacks (8B; $99) Purple snakeskin slingbacks for $99. Yes please.
Purple Label silk trench (6; $350) Silk trench with a big collar!!
Purple Label halter dress (S; $400) Really great side buttons. Pure ’90s Ralph—look at the listing runway photos.
Black Label
Black Label had a ten-year run, 2005 to 2015, with slimmer cuts and shinier finishes than Polo. Quick warning: newer Lauren tags are black too, so you can’t just assess by the black tag alone.
Black Label linen jacket (6; $1,575) A classic, sought-after style (but generally you can find good Chaps alts for <$40)
Black Label blazer (4; $500) Paisley jacquard and a veryyyy chic high collar (similar long version here)
Black Label top (US 4; $208) Liquid silver, baby
Brocade corset top (M; $388) Very into the square neckline and brocade
Black Label metallic top (M; $340) Knit halter with a little shine—love the neckline
Black label navy jacket (M; $123) I love this crinkle texture lately
Black label ruffle cardigan (M; $292) Cashmere but make it date night
Black Label blazer (8; $199) Wool peplum, made in USA, wear it buttoned alone. I may buy this myself before I publish
Black Label cream skirt (XS / US 2; $475) I adore the colors and motif. Unusual but super wearable. (Also love this RL one, which I saw at Manhattan Vintage)
Paisley strapless dress (L; $375) This screams cool casual girl to me. So many ways to style and could really flex for different occasions.
Black Label python trousers (6; $2,205) Genuine python!! A splurge we can all admire together
Black Label fur-trim jacket (L; $875) Into the neckline and shape. City or ski trip!
RL Country & Polo Country
I think of Polo Country as the precursor to RRL, Ralph’s specifically “rugged” line. It’s lots of tweed, corduroy, and blanket wool. I always picture myself wearing Polo in front of a fireplace. I’m personally very drawn to this line, and I’m slowly building my collection for when I’m out west. It feels western and durable, but not too try-hard.
Polo Country tan bomber (Mens M; $200) I am in search of a bomber these days, and can’t decide between these two
Polo Country suede bomber (L; $298) Another bomber I’ve been considering. Olive suede, and the plaid lining is everything
Polo Country hunting jacket (Mens M; $565) Just a very good barn jacket
Polo Country kiltie loafers (Mens 9.5; $129) Fringe, tassels, and made in the USA. My 10.5/11 shoe size ladies should consider.
RL Country southwest skirt (S; $400) Great classic colors and pattern.
Polo Country flannel shirt (XL; $115) I’m just really into this and could see it styled very effortlessly cool a la Courtney Grow
RL Country tapestry jacket (10; $200) I love the juxtaposition of the shape/structure with the woven fabric
Polo Country western sweater (L; $300) Peak Polo Country. Wear it with vintage jeans and loafers.
Polo Country flag cardigan This sadly sold before I could post
Polo Country cowboy sweater (Men’s L; $500) So unique. In all my searching I have not seen this—could be a great husband gift
Chaps
Chaps started in 1978 as Ralph’s budget line and is fully licensed today. I skip most of it, but early pieces can still surprise you (examples below).
Chaps striped denim chore jacket (M; $115) Pinstripe denim chore coat!! Transport me to Vermont
Chaps sailing jacket (S; $76) V cool yacht club vibes
Chaps long coat (M; $86) 90s olive field coat, under $100!
Chaps suede coat (men’s XL; $99) I think this would be so cool styled with dark, straight leg denim.
Chaps windbreaker (L; $90) Located in Canada. PEAK ’80s Chaps.
Chaps floral chambray (XL; $50) Very similar to the black label one above!
For paid subscribers, I’m sharing the rest of the sub-brands: Denim & Supply, Polo and Blue Label, and Lauren. And a few other Rugby and RRL favorites from my 300+ vintage RL Shopmy collection. Keep scrolling, and tell me if you snap anything up!